Parting Is Such Sweet Sorrow
ByThis past weekend, one of my closest friends from college moved back to L.A. after being away for a year in the East Coast. Naturally, we had to get the old crew together and welcome him back with delicious food and strong drinks. Since we had been in a fraternity (don’t judge me), I imagined the night would consist of the typical burgers-and-beer formula that had worked so well in the past. With a vast arsenal of new wave burgers and gourmet beer popping up in the City of Angels, I looked forward to biting into that sweet combo of tomatoes, cheese, and meat and washing it down with a crispy lager.
When I found out we were going to some French-Italian restaurant named Fraiche in Culver City, the disappointment showed in my face and echoed in my voice. Since when had we become boring adults? We’re young twenty-somethings, not some old married couple.
I think that’s what made Fraiche even more tantalizing and delicious for me, that it vastly exceeded my expectations. It showed me the potential of an up-and-coming city and the up-and-coming years of adulthood. It was a pretty metaphorical evening.
The decor and ambiance struck me first simply because it was not what I imagined: it was actually cool and happening. With low lighting, farmhouse stone textures, an open kitchen, and a seductive tanned bar upon entrance, it’s the most unpretentiously hip scene I’ve seen in a while. An impressive wine rack adorns the wall to show that Fraiche isn’t kidding around. They really mean business. After all, chef Jason Travi earned his merits at Spago and Le Terza.
I started out with a Paulaner Original Munich beer that perked me up good, for it was cold and crisp and clean. I matched it with a goat cheese and bruschetta appetizer that had me salivating. The two were so rich in flavor and complemented each other perfectly: one was gooey and somewhat sweet, the other tender and salty. I felt like I ate a lot but was not full. I even held back on the bread and sublime olive tapenade. I had to save room for the main course.
They had me at duck. The Duck Agnolotti is one of the best pastas on the west side. Small raviolis filled with savory duck and basked in a clamshell sauce, topped with baby mushrooms, and doused in truffle butter! I get hungry just writing about it. But I could not limit myself to just one meal. My friends were generous enough to offer me tastes of their meals, and it was the best of all worlds. The monkfish was creamy and buttery and awesome, especially when it topped a smooth potato puree. The steak frites was like having a taste of my two favorite foods: Steak and French Fries (simple enough right?). The steak was tender and juicy and so soft you could cut it with a butter knife. The fries were acceptable. I’ve had better (thank you, Wurstkuche!).
When all was eaten and done, I couldn’t believe how much I had enjoyed the meal. It then dawned on me that we had all grown up a lot since graduation nine months ago. Suddenly, burgers and beers just didn’t cut it anymore. With us, our food tastes and lifestyles had matured, and all for the better. Everything has to move on to a higher level, must continually progress, and that’s something to look forward to.
Like college and with Fraiche, I’m a little sad it’s over, but I’m so happy I did it.
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Fraiche Restaurant
9411 Culver Blvd.
Culver City, CA 90232
310.839.6800
www.fraicherestaurantla.com
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Christine Chau
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sinosoul






