I always thought this statement was the equivalent to “where’s the love?” and meant to express offense. In the past few days, however, I realized it makes no sense. Chopped liver is one of the finer things in life. It’s not pretty, that’s certain, but what it lacks in beauty it makes up for in taste.

My first taste of chopped liver came as a part of the amuses bouche (basically, free appetizers) at Myron & Phil’s, an old-school steak house in Lincolnwood, on New Year’s Eve. One tray—“the pickle tray”—contained fat slices of pickled red pepper, whole pickled green tomatoes, and…pickles. Then there was the breadbasket with raisin-studded pumpernickel and challah, among others. And last but not least, there was a tray with raw onions and one fat scoop of chopped liver with bits of hard-boiled yolk tossed in. I couldn’t believe how tasty it was, and how rich and smooth. Liver? Really? After all the reports I’ve heard though the years of liver and onions being a repulsive combo? Maybe this was just a fluke.

After a few days, I could not get the thought of this grayish chow out of my head. I thought if I didn’t get another fix I would surely die. So off I went to The Bagel, a huge Jewish deli at Old Orchard that specializes in deli staples and old-timey favorites like chocolate phosphates (yes, I ordered one of those too).

I ordered the liver on challah, just like I had it at Myron & Phil’s, and it too came with a pickle and a side of coleslaw. This combo came to a grand total of $8.75, which seemed a bit pricey. That is, until I got it back home.

Imagine the scoop of chopped liver as a wee meaty bomb detonated inside eggy, buttery walls of challah. It exploded over the cut sides and edges of the bread so that biting into it was impossible without having it squirt everywhere. Good times. I only wish I had time to take a photo before I snarfed it down. My only complaint is that the coleslaw portion was way too small in proportion to the sandwich. There were about three forkfuls in a little plastic container the size of a shot glass. I’m a firm believer in having copious amounts of slaw with deli sandwiches, but at least I got a pickle.

The Bagel’s version of chopped liver was as rich and meaty as Myron & Phil’s, but without the yolks, the flavor was also quite strong. The yolks rounded out the flavor and made it more satisfying and creamy. Though I liked Myron & Phil’s better, they were both delicious in their own way. Maybe my first taste of grilled liver and onions isn’t too far behind.

Myron & Phil’s

3333 W. Devon Ave.

Lincolnwood, 60172

(847) 677-6663

The Bagel Restaurant & Deli

50 Old Orchard Center (north end near Lord & Taylor)

Skokie, 60077

(847) 677-0100