West Town Tavern
ByA few friends and I got together a while ago to try West Town Tavern, a nice little joint just off I-90 at Ogden. We decided to order a few dishes and share them.
For appetizers, we tried the Tavern Beer Cheese with crunchy toasts, Shrimp Spring Rolls with Spicy Peanut Dipping Sauce, and the Tavern Antipasto with herbed goat cheese, basil pesto, braised white beans, oven-cured tomatoes, marinated olives, country ham and crunchy toasts.

The Tavern Beer Cheese was a bit odd. It tasted an awful lot of carrots and tarragon but not much of cheese. It reminded me of a not very tasty chunky carrot soup I made not long ago.

The Spring Rolls were stuffed to the gills with shrimp and veggies, and the sauce provided just enough heat without burning our mouths.

The Antipasto was my favorite of the bunch. A nice spread of beans with a slice of ham made a nice little sandwich. We needed seconds of toast for both the Antipasto and the Cheese, and our waiter brought some by without even needing to be asked.
We also shared two entrées: Diver Sea Scallops with Mushroom-Leek Risotto and the special (I’m sure I’m going to butcher the name), Fricassee of Vegetables on a Savory Waffle with Beet Purée.

The risotto was perfectly cooked, creamy, and very rich, with quite a bit of Parmesan. The tender, nicely browned scallops melted in my mouth. I think I ate more of this one than anyone else at the table and I was all the happier for it.

This dish was the favorite of the group. The veggies were flavorful and hearty, with sizeable bits of broccoli and squash. The moisture and heat of the veggies turned the waffle soft and reminiscent of a thick, fluffy crêpe. I didn’t taste much beet, but the purée seemed to be dribbled around the plate as more of a decoration than an ingredient.
Of course we had to polish off the meal with dessert, and for me, that was the point of the meal to begin with. There are quite a few choices on the menu, mostly in pie form, but there is also a cheese plate, brownie sundae and chocolate cake.

We tried the Honeycrisp Apple Turnover with Caramel Sauce and Caramel Ice Cream, which was a disappointment, despite the beautiful presentation. First, the good news: the caramel sauce was creamy and thick, so it didn’t disappear into the ice cream or pastry, and the ice cream was some of the best and richest I’ve ever eaten. It was made with all cream instead of cream and milk, plus plenty of eggs and we suspect a hint of rum. However, the apples in the turnover were overcooked with no crispiness whatsoever and the pastry was undercooked, even a bit raw in the center. But there was no problem with having it taken off the bill when the problem was presented to the waiter.

The Lemon Chess Pie with Berry Sauce and Thick Cream was a winner. The crust was crusty and buttery, and the filling was gooey and very tart with a crunchy golden top due to a quick browning under the broiler before serving. I never had warm lemon pie before, but I may not eat it any other way after this. I think I may have gotten more than my fair share of this too, because my dining companions said they were too full. I have no problems polishing off pie.
Overall, we were pleased with the meal and especially the service, which was attentive without being pushy. We were able to carry on conversation without shouting, despite the fact that the place was booked, even at the bar. For all of the above with one glass of wine, two cups of tea and two coffees, the bill came to just $92.
This may not be a great place for kids, but it’s nice for a gal’s night out, small family gatherings (I believe all the tables were for two or four), or a nice date. Just remember to bring lots of quarters, as the side streets are permit-only and Chicago Avenue is metered.
Despite the publicity about the place, there was no “Check, Please Effect”, so go now while you still have the chance. Reservations for peak hours are recommended.
1329 W. Chicago Ave.
Chicago, 60622
(312) 666-6175

