Chicago
World Cup Fever
I was just at RAM Restaurant & Brewery last night, watching replays of World Cup games, and happy to see that to some extent, World Cup fever has caught on this year. RAM even features a World Cup lager right now. I know some Americans still aren’t sold about the World Cup, but if you imagine Super Bowl Sunday magnified to a one-month-long event and celebrated in every country in the world, there’s something profound in that, isn’t there? Then you can get a sense of how the rest of the globe sees the World Cup. It’s truly an amazing thing, and there’s a reason soccer is called the beautiful game.
Here in Chicago the celebration goes on at official, and unofficial, bars and restaurants across the city. You might be surprised at how much excitement there is even among us Yanks. Official bars and eateries participating in the event include Fado, Small Bar, Red Canary, Old Town Social and Cy’s Crab House. Unofficial ones–well, there’s no way I can know them all or even a fraction of them, but I’m always happy when I stop in to a favorite hangout and discover it’s celebrating the event as well.
You’ll probably have to check individual places to find out if they’re planning on opening up for the early morning games, which begin around 6:30-7 a.m. our time, but definitely consider going for the next U.S. appearances if you’re not working–this Friday at 9 a.m. and next Wednesday, June 23 at 9 a.m. Assuming the U.S moves out of its group (B), then there will be additional games as well.
Check out http://www.africachicago.com/watch.html for additional information on where you can enjoy the World Cup with great food and drink as you experience some excellent soccer. Go U.S.A.!
Lula Cafe
Most people know this little Logan Square gem as a brunch spot. I’m not here to tell you any different – the brunch is indeed fantastic – but I was recently on the prawl for a very specific type of spring produce, and I found it on Lula’s dinner menu.
That spring produce? The fiddlehead. Like most spring delicacies, it’s only available for a few weeks, and you must forage for it. Oh, and it would help if you live in the Pacific North West. I’ve been dying to try this elusive vegetable. Lula answered the call – one of few seasonal spring menus in Chicago to have it in one of their dishes.
The dish? A spring onion consomme with fiddlehead ferns and black garlic. (Also shown is a polenta with wild mushrooms and pea tendrils and my dirty martini – olives stuffed with blue cheese) The soup was divine, with the consomme poured at the table. The onion flavor was strong but kept in check, an umami bomb that was inexplicably addicting.
The rest of the meal was superb as well. Having gone with a group of five close friends, I tried almost everything on the menu.
From left to right, dinner included a strozzapreti with yellowfin tuna conserva, barley risotto, braised short ribs with fresh asparagus, and possibly the highlight of the evening, a caramel pot de creme.
So, this little spot located on an unassuming corner in Logan Square might be famous for their inventive brunch, but don’t rule out dinner. Seasonality is the name of the game here; it doesn’t matter who the competition is – they’re winning.
Lula Cafe
2537 N Kedzie Blvd
Chicago, IL 60647
773.489.9554
Last night I got an opportunity to participate in a “dress rehearsal”–a Schaumburg sports bar is opening tonight, and we were one of the lucky guests who got to come the night before to try the place before it opened.
I’ve never done this before, so I didn’t know what to expect. Upon entering we received highlighted menus and instructions in an envelope. My son played free video games while we waited for a table, and we were told to order only certain items off the menu. This way, we’d help test out the service and the food and give the staff some practice at their new positions. I would have loved to try the onion rings, but we got firecracker shrimp, Jessica’s chicken and avocado sandwich, and the Brick House cheeseburger. The shrimp was my favorite–I loved the sauce. If it had been on the side my son could have had some, because the sauce was just a tiny bit too spicy in spots for him, but I have no complaints. The other dishes were very decent but not special. The service had a few small blips to work out, but nothing big, and our food came super fast. Still, I suspect the draw of this place will be less the food and more the festive sports bar atmosphere.
The decor is eclectic–sports-related, of course, and predictably also music-related. There’s also an odd UFO theme going–UFOs, planets and a rocket ship hang from the ceiling in the first floor’s biggest dining room. We didn’t get to go up to the second floor, but we did check out the patio, and I can tell that’s going to be a big party! There’s a lighted bar out there, sand volleyball court, beanbag toss, grassy picnic area overlooking a pond (well, at least it would be overlooking a pond except for the trees). There are stages for dancing and live music both inside and out, and big flat-screen TVs placed strategically around the dining areas and the bar.
My biggest beef with this place is that, because I’m a huge soccer fan and the first World Cup game between South Africa and Mexico is taking place as I write, I had to ask about World Cup games. Maybe it’s just the one host, but he didn’t even know the World Cup was starting on the day Mad Mark’s opens to the world. That would be today. And I’m sure the place has the technology to put on the games if someone wants them. But this is just a personal preference. Whenever I walk into a sports bar I look for soccer-friendly memorabilia and such, and Mad Mark’s had nothing. It’ll probably be a great place to watch Bears games, but I’d love to think I could come within the next month or so and be guaranteed some soccer action.
Mad Mark’s Mystic Pizza opens today at 4 p.m for dinner. It opens for lunch at 11:30 on June 21.
Mad Mark’s Mystic Pizza
871 E. Algonquin Rd., Schaumburg
(847) 397-3100
www.madmarksmysticpizza.com
New Epic Burger Opening
As mentioned in a previous post, A Tale of Two Burgers, Epic Burger opens a second location Monday, June 7th at North Avenue & Sheffield. Look for it near West Elm & Pottery Barn in the shopping center formerly occupied by Whole Foods.
The Lincoln Park location promises free parking and a BYOB option not available in the S. State Street outlet.
Details:
1000 W. North Avenue
Chicago, IL 60645
Brunching at the Tiztal Cafe
Yesterday I was uptown for a quick lunch with some of my cousins. One is in town for a wedding with his fiancee, whom I had never met. The other one lives in Chicago, and I see her not nearly as frequently as I’d like. We had a late lunch/early breakfast at the Tiztal Cafe, a cute and comfortable but unassuming little neighborhood spot (I missed it twice driving by) that puts all its personality into the food.
I have to admit that I went there wanting to try an oatmeal shake, which I hear is delicious, but with everything going on–meeting cousins, getting my son settled, parking, figuring out what I wanted to eat from the two menus–I plumb forgot about it and I’m totally kicking myself. To be honest, getting there right now through construction is a bit of a hassle but I really do want to go back and try that shake. Maybe I’ll make my husband take me some lazy Sunday morning, because that area is not one I regularly visit. We went because the house my cousin’s staying at was not far away.
A few of the people in our group had the chilequilas, which looked delish (wish I had a picture to show you but I apparently lost my camera just in time). I picked crepes with chicken and spinach and a chipotle sauce. My son had a strawberry-banana smoothie with apple juice, which he liked so much that he completely finished two. He also ordered quesadillas from the kids’ menu. The potatoes were excellent, the rest of the food was quite tasty, and I have nothing to complain about with the service. Especially since there were six of us total, and we kept filtering in at different times, which couldn’t have been that easy for them. They certainly didn’t mind us lingering over our food as we caught up on everyone’s lives.
Naturally I’m not able to try everything in one go, but the menu did have lots of tempting options, including strawberries and cream, pecan waffles, eggs Benedict, omelets, make-your-own-sundaes, a monte cristo, gravy and biscuits and chocolate chip pancakes. If you weren’t in a breakfast-y kind of mood, you could get wraps, burgers, quesadillas and fajitas. I’m actually not that much of a breakfast-food person, so I might do that the next time around. When I finally get my oatmeal shake.
The Tiztal Cafe
4631 N. Clark St. (Uptown)
(773) 271-4631
Big Star: Tacos, Whiskey, and Cash-Only
The former Pontiac Cafe got a new owner, a new look, and a new cuisine when Big Star moved into the Wicker Park/Bucktown ‘hood. Big Star joins the family of Paul Kahan’s powerhouse restaurants Avec, Blackbird, Publican, and Violet Hour. Known for serving tacos, whiskey shots, and accepting only cash, Big Star has a line of hungry diners from lunch time till the wee hours of the morning.
Sitting outside on a Friday in the summer is an easy way to enjoy the casual ambience of the restaurant — the music is a familiar yet a random mix of favorites, the staffers are friendly, and the food comes out fast (or at least it did for lunch).
The guacamole is seriously good: fresh, tangy, and served with crispy chips. In his early years, Kahan worked for Rick Bayless so his guac-making skills are dead on.
The list of tacos is short, but packed with flavors. I ordered the grilled chicken tostado with black beans, lettuce, and crema; the pastor taco with marinated pork, cilantro, and pineapple; and the fish tostado with grilled tilapia, cabbage, radishes, and avocado. Other menu items include a queso fundido, a pork belly taco, a roasted poblano taco, pinto beans, and a dulce de leche milkshake. There is a whiskey shot of the day for $3 in addition to margaritas, cocktails, and beers.
Go now before the patio is packed!
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Big Star
1531 N Damen near the North Avenue, Milwaukee, Damen intersection
open seven days a week from 1130 a.m. to 2 a.m.
Awaiting Floriole
View from Floriole
I had been waiting for Floriole Cafe and Bakery to open for months. Each day I would drive down Webster Avenue to work and find my eyes magnetized to the progressing facade. There was something quite perfect about the looks of the place in its location – snuggled in between the patio of a bar and a kitchen and bath storefront on this quaint strip of upscale real estate. The facade said “I’m modern and breezy, yet Euoprean and relaxed” the facade said “you will eat treats inside here that will be rivaled only by those you’ve eaten in France.” So when the doors finally opened, I circled the block five times to find a parking space and then made a mad dash for it. I have now been to Floriole 5 times and have been disappointed only once, which involved their Almond Croissant ($4.00 I may add) which simply didn’t have enough almond flavor for my taste. I like almond croissants with almond paste in them, that delicous extracty flavor perfectly coating the crisp, flaky shell of pastry. I think the unfortunate problem for me here was that the croissant was made with a real crushed-almond cream, which lacks the flavor and texture of almond paste. I can’t fault the chef for wanting to use fresh, hand-made ingredients. But at $4.00 a pop, I’ll just as soon go to Flourish way up on Bryn Mawr by my apartment and get an almond croissant I find perfect for half the price.
That said, yes, Floriole is expensive. And yes, I prefer the almond croissants elsewhere. Still, this place is not to be missed. Their shortbread is $1.00 a stick and it is absolutely the most sinful, chewiest shortbread I’ve ever eaten. Their macaroons are made of a chewy outer shell sandwich stuffed with rich, decadent creme. The chocolate cannelles have a crisp, burnt outter shell and soft, lush pastry innards that are the ideal balance of sweet and cake-y. I’d highly suggest one accompanying a well-brewed, dark roast coffee complete with a brown sugar cube mixed in from the cream/sugar bar. And this is only the start. I plan to return for the pizzetas, a slice of rosemary lemon poundcake, a chocolate pot de creme, an asparagus tartine, a fresh cherry tartelle (with cherries straight from the greenmarket.) I could go on and on. But with descriptions like these, who needs to? Just stop in.
Floriole Cafe and Bakery
1220 Webster Avenue Chicago, IL 60614
Tel: 773-883-1313
Located in the North Shore suburb of Glencoe, the Chicago Botanic Garden is easily reached by Metra train. And although of course its main focus is providing a sprawlingly beautiful, verdant and peaceful space full of gorgeous plantings, the Botanic Garden is actually a wonderful place for foodies during this time of year.
Every weekend from now until October 3, at 1:30 and 2:30 p.m., demonstrations that are part of the Garden Chef series take place. Noted chefs from all over the Chicago area–city and suburbs–come to show off their skills. No reservation is needed; seating in the125-seat ampitheater is on a first-come, first-served basis.
The lineup for this year includes Joe Bova and Jeff Steinberg of Cookie Bar on 5/30; Alvaro Chavez of Depot Nuevo on 6/6, Michael Kingsley of Garden Cafe on 6/12, Susan Maddox of Le Titi De Paris on 6/19, Suzy Crofton of Crofton on Wells on 6/26, Andy Motto of Quince on 6/27, Christopher Tong of My Private Chef on 7/4, Gale Gand of Tru on 7/17, Carlyn Berghoff of Berghoff, 7/18, Janine MacLachlan of The Rustic Kitchen on 8/15, Randy Zweiban of Province on 8/21, Robert Packer of Karma on 8/29, David DiGregorio of Osteria Via Stato on 9/4, Michael Paulsen of Abigail’s American Bistro on 9/12, Doug D’Avico of Trattoria No. 10 on 10/2 and Christopher Seaton of Soundings Cafe on 10/3.
In addition to that, the Garden hosts its annual Wine Festival on 6/12-6/13 from noon-6 p.m. each day. Over 250 domestic and imported wines are available for tasting and for purchase here; local restaurants will offer food for sale, and music and seminars are featured as well. Wine and beer will also be available by the glass. Wineries, Chicago area chefs and restaurateurs and specialty food shops will be on-site, offering demonstrations and pairing seminars. Tickets cost $25 in advance and $28/$35 at the door.
Barilla Italian Cooking Weekend (part of the Garden Chef series) takes place here on 7/10-7/11 from 10 a.m.-5 p.m. both days. During this special event, local chefs will give three daily cooking demonstrations with fresh Italian ingredients. Visitors receive plant and seed-packet giveaways and can participate in family activities as well as olive oil and balsamic vinegar presentations. And naturally, there are tastings.
The Chicago Botanic Garden is free, but there is a parking fee of $20 per car (bigger vehicles cost more). For additional information on the culinary delights available here all season long, visit www.chicagobotanic.org.
The Purple Pig
Pork is the new beef. Food trends come and go just like fashion, and the “in” food of the moment is definitely the pig.
Sure, bacon has been popular for as long as I can remember. There was a bar in my college town that served a free side of bacon on Tuesday nights. As a child, I declared myself a vegetarian, only to eat bacon the next day. Bacon has long been regarded as a food that can go on anything – cupcakes or eggs, chocolate or pizza.
Jamon Serrano
I have had my sights set on The Purple Pig for a while, a restaurant that takes pork and pigs seriously. If you know food in Chicago, you probably have heard the hype. They serve every edible part of the pig, small plates style. With a slogan like theirs – Cheese, Wine, and Swine – you know this place means serious business. And what better excuse to go there than Rioja Week. Yet another week of prix-fixe meals at some of the best restaurants in the city. The deal: $25 lunch, $35 dinner, both served with a glass of Rioja.
Pork Fried Almonds with Roasted Garlic and Rosemary
Their menu is not limited to pork, though. They serve all kinds of delicacies with equal precision and expertise. The octopus was far and away the best octopus I have ever eaten. It was a flavor bomb in the most subtle way possible, and the texture was meaty, juicy, tender – not at all spongy or rubbery.
Rock Shrimp with Fresh Peas and Octopus with Acini di Pepe & Swiss Chard
The star of the evening was still the hog, though. If you know me, and you know that I was a vegetarian for 12 years (after the bacon incident in my childhood, that is), this next statement may shock you – brace yourself. My favorite dish of the night was the roasted bone marrow.
The rich, fatty center of the pig femur is luxurious and creamy. Spread it on toasted bread, sprinkle on some salt, and try not to eat it too fast.
The Purple Pig
500 North Michigan Avenue
Chicago, IL 60611
312.464.1PIG
Borinquen Restaurant: Home of the Jibarito
Close your eyes and think of a sandwich. Now imagine taking the bread off of that sandwich and replacing it with some deep fried delicious. The marketing folks over at KFC have basically guaranteed that the image sliding around in your head is the logic defying entity hailed as The Double Down. KFC went there. With the kind of amoral curiosity possessed by Dr. Frankenstein, KFC took a modest bacon and cheese sandwich and replaced the bread with sliced of fried chicken. Until Tuesday I was having nightmares about the thing. Until Tuesday, I thought I would be stuck forever with dreams of flaccid fried chicken engulfing some limp piece of bacon oozing cheese onto my table. Thankfully, on Tuesday, I discovered a hero, a new breadless sandwich that led to far sweeter dreams. I discovered the Jibarito.
As it turns out, the Jibarito is a simple concept. Combine meat, cheese, tomato, lettuce, and mayo and slap it between two slices of flattened fried plantain. This elegant concoction supposedly got its start in Puerto Rico, but it really took off right here in Chicago in the late nineties. The sandwiches are available all over the city now, but if you want to go to the epicenter of the trend, head to Borinquen Restaurant over in Humboldt Park.
Don’t saunter into Borinquen expecting amenities like stellar service or candelabra. This place strays deep into hole in the wall territory. As you enter, you’ll pass through an antechamber that includes the takeout counter and the Kitchen. Eventually you’ll be seated in a large windowless room in the back. The place is supposedly bustling on the weekends and at lunch time, but when I went, it was pretty empty. Still, on my trip, a large Puerto Rican family seemed to be enjoying a get together.
I tried both steak and pork Jibaritos. The experience is hard to describe. Perhaps the first thing you should know is that they are messy. As I picked mine up, I quickly began to question its structural integrity. With every bite, a small slice of lettuce would tumble onto my plate hinting at imminent disintegration. In my hands the sandwich struggled in a state of flux between existence and non-existence, constantly trying to eschew its sandwichhood for a more natural state. And yet, entropy did not win. The flavor of the cheap meat and cheese coalesced with each other and fused with the salty sweet counterpoint from the crunch plantains. Somehow the makers of the Jibarito take simple, even base ingredients, and transmute them into pure delicious. It is a work of culinary alchemy. As I swallowed my last bite, I was left with a yearning for more, but I know that I will never be able to relive the experience of my first Jibarito.
Information:
Name: Borinquen Restaurant
Price: Less than $10 for a full meal
Address: 1720 North California Ave
Phone: (773) 227-6038
