Being a (very) recent East Coast transplant to the bohemian state of California, Hawaiian food is something that had never even crossed my mind. So, when on a leisurely post-work walk I spotted the bright yellow and blue tropical signage of Ono Hawaiian BBQ, I figured it was a good a time as any to get a taste of the islands.

Step inside and everything is sparking, from the veneered wood furniture to the church-like ceilings. The mint condition isn’t like to last long, but right now, it’s nothing short of snazzy. The chain nature of the restaurant is obvious from first glance; thankfully, the food is far from generic.

The menu is concise and focused. The signature dish, also the signature dish of most Hawaiian BBQs and the great state itself, is the ubiquitous “plate lunch”: two scoops of white rice, one of macaroni salad, and a hot entree over a bed of steamed cabbage. In my half-dozen visits to this place in the past two weeks (yes, it’s become a little addiction of mine), I’ve had everything from the famous Chicken Katsu, a breaded and fried boneless chicken breast and a variation on the Japanese tonkatsu, to Loco Moco, a distinctly Hawaiian specialty consisting of a hamburger patty drenched in gravy and topped with a fried egg.

The uneasy combination of rice and macaroni salad can be offputting, and many diners choose to forego the mayonnaise-y side dish, but the Hawaiians have proven that macaroni salad does have a place in a meal that’s otherwise almost completely Japanese. Just be careful with take-out: the steam from the entree and rice can heat up and saturate the mac until it becomes a thoroughly disgusting affair.

If you’re a fan of teriyaki, Ono is only a mildly adventurous departure from the usual. And if you’re feeling particularly wild, Hawaii is notorious for its liberal use of that lovable old mystery meat SPAM. Try a Grilled Spam Moco (a Loco Moco with spam in place of the hamburger) or a couple Spam Musubi (also known as “huge spam sushi”).

Overall, a casual and exotic experience, perfect for those short on time or craving something a little different. What sets Ono apart from the assorted generic Hawaiian BBQs littered throughout the city is the triple threat of consistent high quality, reasonable prices, and efficient service.

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