Author Archive
Girl and the Goat Lives up to the Hype
Hype and publicity are often double-edged swords, though I’m sure the restaurants on the receiving end of it soak it up and bathe in it. For me, while I love the media build-up for soon-to-open restaurants, I know that in order to dine there once open, I will really need to be at the top of my game, making a reservation the very minute the phone lines go live.
Such was the case with the Girl and the Goat (GATG). Chicagoans have been waiting for two years, ever since Stephanie Izard won the reality TV honor of Top Chef, for our hometown pride to put that prize money to good use and provide us with the opportunity to feast on her creations. Two years. Two years of media coverage, Wandering Goat preview dinners, and blog, Facebook, and Twitter updates.
So when GATG finally opened in July, you know I was on the phone instantly – making reservations for a Wednesday night a month in advance. The real danger for a restaurateur who receives bucket loads of media hype is living up to it, so even though I was cannot-contain-myself excited to honor our reservation, I was also a little bit nervous and hoped we would not disappoint our out-of-town dinner guests. And, did we?
The short answer is no, we did not disappoint – and neither did Ms. Izard. The long answer is: see below.
The breads at GATG have received a fair amount of attention – some hate that it’s not free, others simply praise their glory. At $4-5, I didn’t mind shelling out some dough for a warm, airy bread served with liver butter and a fruity jam-like spread. The spreads change often but always seem to be interesting.
Best dish of the night, hands down. Pan fried shishito peppers with parmesan, sesame seeds, and miso. Smoky, mild, flavorful – a vegetable dish that stands up to the heavy-hitter meat dishes.
Another star veggie dish. Green beans, still crisp, served with a fish sauce vinaigrette.
Roasted cauliflower, as we all probably know by now, is the very best way to cook an otherwise dull veg. Served with pickled peppers, pine nuts, and mint? Truly an unexpected revelation.
Oh, goat balls. Served with a bright red sauce and escargot, Ms. Izard had us convinced, at least for a minute, that we were eating those goat balls. After the first bite, though, which tasted more like a sausage, we realized we were eating goat meatballs, as in goat meat formed into balls. Deceivingly delicious.
Soft crab shell with fresh summer corn. Good, but I’m not writing home about it. Those shishito peppers apparently stole the show.
Seared summer flounder. Crisp on the outside, flaky and buttery on the inside.
Seared skirt steak that was, while tasty, a bit unmemorable. I mean, when you’re eating things called goat balls, a measly steak just doesn’t seem to stand out. The beets are rather pretty though, aren’t they?
Finally, perhaps the most creative part of the menu, the sweet-meats-savory desserts. Deep fried potato doughnuts served with… candied eggplant? Eh? Just trust me on this one.
So there you have it. Now that you’ve seen the pictures, try to get a reservation in say, three months. Don’t be discouraged – it will be worth it.
Girl and the Goat
809 W Randolph St, Chicago IL, 60607 · (312) 492-6262
Lillie’s Q
It’s all about the Q. Of all the food trends happening in Chicago right now, I must say, it’s all about the Q.
BBQ. Slow smoked meats. Dry rubs. Sauce. Pedigreed chef. Goodness.
Lillie’s Q took over in the former Aberdeen space on North Avenue, and ever since they opened, the place has been hoppin’. They join a slew of new BBQ restaurants opening up all over the city, but these guys are stocked and loaded with award-winning, grandma Lillie’s secret recipes. Grandma Lillie obviously had a trick or two up her sleeve.
The meats were phenomenal. Juicy, tender. The ribs just fell off the bone. I hate to say it (or do I?), but these ribs were better than anything I’ve had in Texas. Do not leave this place without ordering ribs.
It’s also about the sauce, though. Five very special sauces are on offer, including an “ivory” variety that is peppery, slightly vinegary, and of course, creamy. The Carolina is the most traditional BBQ sauce – sweet, tangy, and the perfect consistency to slather over meat. Carolina Gold is similar to the original Carolina but with a mustard after-taste. The last two – Smoky and Hot Smoky – were my favorites. They taste like the names suggest, smoky, a little spicy, and all around good.
Lillie’s also has a unique atmosphere that stands out from other BBQ joints. With a slogan like “Urban Barbecue”, you can expect something more industrial, more hip.
Lillie’s Q
1856 W North Ave
Chicago, IL
773.772.5500
the website is not up yet, but it will be located at http://www.lilliesq.com/
Lunch in the Loop
Let’s talk lunch for a minute, shall we? I am generally not one to eat many lunches out. For health reasons, but also to keep my wallet bulky, I usually bring my own lunch to work. However, on the rare occasion that I allow myself to eat out (is once a week rare?), I have a number of favorites that are usually pretty good health-wise. Lunch in the loop without breaking the bank? That’s another story.
Anyway, we Loop workers are really fortunate to have excellent variety in lunch options. Sure, we can get our fair share of disgustingly fatty fast food, not unlike any other American city, but we also have a number of fresh, health-centric quick-serve restaurants that focus on quality. Below is a list of a few of restaurants I find myself consistently going back to:
Hannah’s Bretzel: I just ate there today, so it is still at the top of my list. The insanely fresh, quality ingredients make this place a winner already, but bretzel – that is, pretzel bread – that is not rock hard? Bonus points! They also serve an equally-satisfying multigrain baguette and list nutrition information on their website.
Protein Bar: One word – quinoa – that protein-rich, satisfying little grain that’s also loaded with complex carbohydrates is the star here. Try it with the chili, though you can’t go wrong with anything, really. I often eat their steel-cut oats with fresh fruit for breakfast after an especially taxing spin class in the morning, but their salads, wraps, and savory bowls are fresh and delicious as well.
Freshii: Ok, so the name is a little annoyingly… weird. But these guys are taking over the Loop with a number of locations and some extremely good food. Brown rice? Yes please! The customizable bowls, soups, and wraps all are big enough to get two lunches out of them. Super healthy; super good.
Market Creations: Even I’m surprised I’m listing this cafeteria-style cafe in the Sears (ahem, Willis) Tower, considering they serve up all kinds of greasier-than-thou foods like Orange Chicken and macaroni and cheese, but their salad bar is pretty reliable and they have some really great sushi that is relatively inexpensive. The sushi is sold by the pound, so generally I grab a few a la carte pieces of nigiri with miso soup – all under $10.
Pret a Manger: Did I get your hopes up? No, it’s not open yet, but I’m seriously looking forward to their quick and easy grab-n-go lunches.
There you have it folks. What are some of your favorite lunch spots?
Publican
If you have ever tried to eat out on a public holiday such as July 4, you may know what a difficult prospect that is. This year, after a long July 4th weekend of eating, drinking, and sun exposure, my fiancé and I still had a couple guests in town and wanted to show them the Chicago dining scene. We were tired of pizza, hot dogs, and grill outs at the beach, and while all those things are lovely in their own right, we were in serious need of some refinement.
When the first restaurant we tried was not open, we started walking, trying to find something else close and delicious – to no avail. Then I made phone calls to a few of my favorite restaurants in the City – those that I knew were sure to please. Nothing was open. There was, however, one restaurant that has been on my radar for a while – The Publican. It was my last shot, and they were open for regular hours! As fate would have it, it was one of the best meals I’ve had in a while and it turned out to be the perfect place to show off Chicago and our fabulous food (warning: this is a picture-heavy post; the food was just so photogenic!).
The menu is organized by meat, fish, or vegetable and by the size of the serving, with smaller portions on top and the largest portions on the bottom. Everything is served family style, so we ordered an array of choices from small, medium, and large plates. The service was outstanding as well – we told our server what we wanted to eat, and he quickly organized our entire order into courses. He was also extremely knowledgeable about the fantastic beer list – one of our guests claimed the beer he ordered was the best he has ever had.
We started out with a small portion of the daily pickles – sweet cucumber pickles, pickled onions, and giardiniera. The first course also included a dozen West Coast oysters and some serious pork rinds. They were crisp and light with a perfect dusting of a more perfect seasoning. While I have not eaten many pork rinds in my life (a travesty, I know!), I feel I can safely say these will forever be the standard by which I measure these little treats.
The next course – tuna escabeche – was equally satisfying. The tuna was served with big, juicy, extremely satisfying tomatoes and a rich – but not overpowering – olive oil. The tuna itself was, of course, high quality and perfectly seared. After the first course, I expected nothing less.
For me, the highlight of the meal was the third course. I was not yet overly fully so as to diminish my tasting experience, but also, the flavors – the flavors! – of the third course were utterly addicting, completely extravagant, and well, let’s just say food no longer tastes the same. I’m talking about the trout. A deboned, whole trout served with white and green cauliflower. The skin – flawlessly crisp – and the luscious, explosion-of-flavor flesh were only matched in greatness by the saucy drippings on the plate – all of which were soaked off the plate with bread to the point that you’d think we licked it. We didn’t. But I’m sure I can speak for everyone when I say we wanted to.
Our final course – duck hearts, lamb sausage, and pork belly – were all rich and satisfying and put me into a food coma beyond comprehension. The duck hearts were served atop crusty bread with apricots and mushrooms. The lamb sausage would have been my favorite meal of the evening if I hadn’t been completely stuffed to the brim by the time I ate it. And the pork belly, served with a chocolate sauce, was divine. At the table, I described it as being the lightest, most refreshing chunk of fat I’ve ever eaten – if that’s possible.
In conclusion – go to Publican. This post is full of superlatives and what-may-seem-like exaggerations, but I promise you won’t be disappointed. The service, the beer list, the food, the ambiance – it all adds up to one great experience that highlights Chicago at its best.
La Madia Pizzeria
A couple weeks ago I had a group of friends in town to have a little celebration known as a bachelorette party. Yep, I’m getting married in two weeks. Wow! The foodie that I am, of course I wanted to have a great dinner to celebrate and say goodbye to my last few weeks as a (technically) single woman (let’s be real – “single” was a word I quit using long ago). When you have 10 people all going to dinner, though, the options start to limit themselves quickly. Different budgets, different palates – it’s hard to find the perfect restaurant that everyone will like.
Fortunately, La Madia aims to please. The almost ridiculously reasonable prices despite the downtown location, quality food, and crowd-pleasing menu made them an obvious choice. Who doesn’t love pizza? And while Chicago is known for pizza, La Madia’s pies are a far cry from the greasy, fatty deep dish pizza that we usually rep’ in this city. The crispy thin crusts and unique, almost exotic combinations of flavors, not to mention the cute, modern interior and wood-burning oven that is visible from the dining room all make this place a pizza destination in its own right.
Cracked Organic Egg, San Daniele Prosciutto, Caciocavallo Cheese & Black Pepper Pizza
Coach Farm Goat Cheese, Melted Leeks, Garlic, & Pancetta Pizza
We ordered an outstanding array of food, and while the pizzas were excellent, the appetizers stole the show. The special of the evening – squash blossoms stuffed with ricotta cheese and an array of herbs served with a side of La Madia’s classic pizza sauce – was easily the crowd favorite. Other starters included the Oven-Roasted, Prosciutto-Wrapped Medjool Dates Filled with Gorgonzola Dolce and Oven-Roasted Globe Artichokes, a personal favorite and something I order every time I go to La Madia.
My advice is to be adventurous with your pizza order. Forget the pepperoni and try something new because La Madia is sure to do it right and you’ll be sure to gobble it down.
La Madia
59 W. Grand Ave.
Chicago, IL
312.239.0400
Lula Cafe
Most people know this little Logan Square gem as a brunch spot. I’m not here to tell you any different – the brunch is indeed fantastic – but I was recently on the prawl for a very specific type of spring produce, and I found it on Lula’s dinner menu.
That spring produce? The fiddlehead. Like most spring delicacies, it’s only available for a few weeks, and you must forage for it. Oh, and it would help if you live in the Pacific North West. I’ve been dying to try this elusive vegetable. Lula answered the call – one of few seasonal spring menus in Chicago to have it in one of their dishes.
The dish? A spring onion consomme with fiddlehead ferns and black garlic. (Also shown is a polenta with wild mushrooms and pea tendrils and my dirty martini – olives stuffed with blue cheese) The soup was divine, with the consomme poured at the table. The onion flavor was strong but kept in check, an umami bomb that was inexplicably addicting.
The rest of the meal was superb as well. Having gone with a group of five close friends, I tried almost everything on the menu.
From left to right, dinner included a strozzapreti with yellowfin tuna conserva, barley risotto, braised short ribs with fresh asparagus, and possibly the highlight of the evening, a caramel pot de creme.
So, this little spot located on an unassuming corner in Logan Square might be famous for their inventive brunch, but don’t rule out dinner. Seasonality is the name of the game here; it doesn’t matter who the competition is – they’re winning.
Lula Cafe
2537 N Kedzie Blvd
Chicago, IL 60647
773.489.9554
The Purple Pig
Pork is the new beef. Food trends come and go just like fashion, and the “in” food of the moment is definitely the pig.
Sure, bacon has been popular for as long as I can remember. There was a bar in my college town that served a free side of bacon on Tuesday nights. As a child, I declared myself a vegetarian, only to eat bacon the next day. Bacon has long been regarded as a food that can go on anything – cupcakes or eggs, chocolate or pizza.
Jamon Serrano
I have had my sights set on The Purple Pig for a while, a restaurant that takes pork and pigs seriously. If you know food in Chicago, you probably have heard the hype. They serve every edible part of the pig, small plates style. With a slogan like theirs – Cheese, Wine, and Swine – you know this place means serious business. And what better excuse to go there than Rioja Week. Yet another week of prix-fixe meals at some of the best restaurants in the city. The deal: $25 lunch, $35 dinner, both served with a glass of Rioja.
Pork Fried Almonds with Roasted Garlic and Rosemary
Their menu is not limited to pork, though. They serve all kinds of delicacies with equal precision and expertise. The octopus was far and away the best octopus I have ever eaten. It was a flavor bomb in the most subtle way possible, and the texture was meaty, juicy, tender – not at all spongy or rubbery.
Rock Shrimp with Fresh Peas and Octopus with Acini di Pepe & Swiss Chard
The star of the evening was still the hog, though. If you know me, and you know that I was a vegetarian for 12 years (after the bacon incident in my childhood, that is), this next statement may shock you – brace yourself. My favorite dish of the night was the roasted bone marrow.
The rich, fatty center of the pig femur is luxurious and creamy. Spread it on toasted bread, sprinkle on some salt, and try not to eat it too fast.
The Purple Pig
500 North Michigan Avenue
Chicago, IL 60611
312.464.1PIG
Franks ‘N’ Dawgs
Watch out Hot Doug, someone new in town is serving up awesome gourmet “dawgs” as well.
Ok, let’s back up a little. Nothing will ever replace Hot Doug’s. This I hold to be truth. However, if another gourmet hot dog shop happened to open up a lot closer to where I live and didn’t come with hour-long waits, I wouldn’t be upset. In fact, I’m not. Welcome, Franks ‘N’ Dawgs.
The owners include a chef with a pedigree that includes Blackbird and Sixteen and a self-professed hot dog lover. They have created a menu that includes the usual suspects as well as some more exotic combinations.
The Lamb Kemma is a lamb sausage (obviously) served with English peas, cucumber salad, pearl onions and Socca.
Knocked Up involves Knockwurst with grilled eggplant, goats cheese and salsa verde.
While both of these proved to be mouth-watering combos, for me, the bun made it an experience to remember. The “French-style pain de mie bun” (as written on their website) is baked daily. Buttered and toasted, it holds up perfectly to the juicy sausages. I would eat these without the sausages even. They’re that good.
What’s more, instead of handing out numbers like most quick-casual restaurants, they hand out pictures of celebrities. Nothing like Chris Rock to stare at while you’re waiting for your sausage.
Check out Franks ‘N’ Dawgs before the lines start forming.
Franks ‘N’ Dawgs
1863 N Clybourn Ave
Chicago, IL 60614
312.281.5187
Lokal Brunch
I have a new favorite brunch spot. It is two blocks from my house, serves a succinct yet quality menu, and best of all, serves bottomless—yes bottomless—Bloody Marys and Mimosas. The real kicker? Those aforementioned drinks are made with fresh—yes fresh—juice. I’m talking about fresh squeezed orange and tomato juices. Seriously.
If you’ve never had fresh tomato juice, it might totally blow your socks off. It tastes nothing like the canned, concentrate stuff. Surprise! It tastes like fresh tomatoes! Throw in some vodka, spices, and the mandatory green olives, and you have yourself one great brunch drink. Or two. Really, have as many as you like—it is, after all, all-you-can-drink for a minuscule $7-9.
What is this sent-from-the-heavens brunch spot? LOKal. I still don’t know how to pronounce the name, but I do know that they serve up modern Eastern European goodies at night and fabulous brunch fare—sandwiches, omelets, etc—on weekend mornings. I’m talking about a toasted baguette with mounds of medium-rare steak, gorgonzola remoulade, and super skinny french fries covered in feta cheese.
I’d be returning simply for that Bloody Mary, but the steak sandwich served with those skinny little feta frites solidified my new-found loyalty.
LOKal
1904 West North Avenue Chicago, IL 60622 773.904.8113 www.lokalchicago.comSpring is Here
Last weekend, I locked myself out of my apartment. You know—locked the handle, grabbed my wallet, closed the door behind me, and at that very instant, realized I did not have my keys. I didn’t even have my cell phone. Long story short: I walked around the neighborhood for about two hours waiting for someone to come let me in to my apartment. You might think this sounds like a terrible start to my day; you’d be wrong.
I ambled along all the best streets in my ‘hood, stopping to read postings in windows and take a closer look at random street art. I also walked by Spring, a restaurant on North Avenue with a James Beard Award-winning chef. True to its name, Spring had just recently posted their new spring menu—a Friday-night-only, $40, five-course celebration of the first signs of life after the winter thaw. They had me at the first dish with asparagus, but when I read the words, “halibut, gnocchi, wild mushrooms, ramps”, well, I knew where my Friday night would be spent.
The whole meal was fantastic. Shaved asparagus salad. Chilled, creamy soup. A massive dessert of panna cotta and fig-stuffed doughnuts. But let’s not forget why we came…
The halibut. The gnocchi.
The wild mushrooms. The ramps.
Ramps—the reason I survive the winter. Am I sounding dramatic? They’re just that good.
Honestly though, Spring has always gotten it right for me. The cocktails are great, the prices are reasonable, and the quality of the food is exceptional.
Plus, how cute is this complimentary, post-meal hot chocolate?
Spring Restaurant
2039 West North AvenueChicago, IL 60647-6380
773.395.7100
www.springrestaurant.net
